Photo Credit: Gustavo Brazzalle
Christmas is a just 3 sleeps away and the longest day of the year is looking like it is going to be a sunny one. The city is dressed up with tinsel, lights and festivities. Schools are out, meaning the streets are full of boisterous young porteños out enjoying their summer freedom. Christmas is a summer festival for Buenos Aires, meaning the long warm sultry evenings are enjoyed well into the early hours with friends and family. Papa Noel still delivers the presents on the night of the 24th, but being Nochebuena, parents have invented the story that he manages to sneak past everybody to leave the presents under the tree as the children are outside admiring the fireworks. He sounds pretty nimble for a big, jolly man dressed in a heavy woolen suit.
If you have ever spent a Christmas or New Year here in the years prior, you know that fireworks light up the nightsky a plenty during these celebrations. While the amount of fireworks continues to reduce each year, the noise is certainly plenty enough to hide any sleigh bells that Santa´s magical sleigh might accidentally make, leaving children with no doubt that Papa Noel could quite possibly have flown overhead and they wouldn´t be any the wiser.
There are many ways of celebrating Christmas and New Year here in the city but since you are in the city of Tango, why not spice it up with spending the evening out at a tango show. Several tango shows are offering special Christmas Eve shows that often offer extras like welcome cocktails, a gala dinner, wonderful tango show, a glass of champagne at midnight and the opportunity to continue the party after the show, with a DJ. La Ventana, Gala Tango, El Viejo Almacen, Piazzolla Tango and Madero Tango are offering special shows on Christmas Eve. Remember, you are able to book right up until the 24th.
It is highly recommended over the holiday season to prebook everything. Public transportation can seem non existent on the holiday days as they run a very reduced schedule and delays are inevitable - take note that between 9pm and 3am on the celebration days, there are almost no buses or taxis. Many restaurants require reservations as well. All the hard work is done for you with a tango show though and you don't have to worry about being stranded without a taxi. Besides, this is Buenos Aires whose heart and soul is about tango. What better way to celebrate the festive season?
If you are arriving here after Christmas for the New Year, you have a wide variety of options for your New Year celebrations. All the tango shows are offering specially planned events to welcome in the New Year and offer an excellent way to give you a unique start to 2020. Transfers, cocktails, dinner, tango show - all followed by parties until the wee small hours of the morning. Madero Tango is even offering the additional surprise of watching fireworks go off over the docks of Puerto Madero. Whether it’s traditional (Cafe de Los Angelitos), romantic (Gala Tango, La Ventana), extravagant (Madero Tango, Señor Tango, Rojo Tango) or bohemian (El Viejo Almacen, El Querandi), you are sure to find a New Year´s Eve tango show that suits your style.
Feliz Navidad and may you tango yourself into a wonderful New Year.
]]>Summer has arrived with a hiss and a roar and a relentless sun beating down from the cloudless blue sky. The city is on the cusp of the humid suffocating heat that accompanies full summer here, but for a few more weeks, the nights will cool off just enough and the day time breeze will keep you from overheating. The city has turned purple under the shade of the jacaranda flowers and the porteños are happy to finally have shaken off the long winter that 2019 brought us. There is more movement in the city, the people are out enjoying the parks and weekend asados are plentiful.
If you are in town at the moment and are really feeling like a little grass roots tango, get yourself along to the events of the 3rd Festival Independente de Tango en Urchasdonia. The title might be a bit of a mouthful for those non-native spanish speakers, but the tango is first class and the community is warm and welcoming.
Taking its name from the amalgamation of the four neighbourhoods Villa Urquiza, Parque Chass, Villa Pueyrredon and Agronomia, this is barrio tango at its best. These aren't simply four neighbouring barrios. Some of the most infamous milongas are held in these areas - Sin Rumbo, Sunderland, Milonga del Moran. And El Faro (The Lighthouse) cafe has been a long standing patron to the tango that exudes from these neighbourhoods. It has been a beacon for tango lovers since 1931, featuring an immense amount of intimate concerts of instruments and singers over this time including, Cucuza and Alberto Podesta.
The third year of running, Urchasdonia is a way to encourage people to view their neighbourhoods differently. To notice and connect on their very own streets, and celebrate the connections that can happen in their own backyards. In a world where so much value is placed on being global, or being seen, or connected worldwide, this festival encourages people to come back to their roots and see the friendships and cultural connections that exist on their very own doorstep. Promising milongas, concerts, music, singers, classes and friendship this festival truly celebrates the artists and dancers from this vibrant part of the city.
The festival runs from the 15th to the 19th November. On the 15th, the opening event is just a few blocks from the end of Linea B subte (Las Rosas station) so there really is no excuse for not heading down to check out the fabulous street art, the gorgeous dancers Marcelo and Lucila, and wonderful singer Cucuza. Stick around Villa Urquiza and head to El Faro later in the evening to enjoy a true porteño tango experience.
Since it is a long weekend in the city, the events continue every day. On Sunday, you are promised a wonderful afternoon of music as singers go head to head in the final of the contest ¨Jorge Casal¨at Club Agronomia. It all wraps up with a Monday afternoon Milonga including a class. There is no excuse not to dip your toes in the dancing pool since the weather promises to be fine and its right after siesta time.
Check out https://www.facebook.com/festivaltangourchasdonia/ for more information or @marceloylucila on Instagram.
]]>(Photo credit and copyright David Andrews)
As tango shows go, this one is quite different. Still incorporating the story telling of unrequited love, passion, deceit and abandonment (which is common is almost all tango shows), this show embraces the beauty and expression of both Salon and stage tango and also folkloric dance, allowing the storyline and characters to be easily conveyed and developed through the talented dancers ́ beautiful movements.
You are probably familiar with Carmen, the Bizet opera that shocked its French audiences back in 1875 with its passionate and scandelous storyline which climaxes with the lead character´s murder on stage. Carmen is a free spirited gypsy who seduces military man Don José, making him release her despite being arrested for assalting another woman and he is thrown in jail for not doing his duty. Despite reuniting with Carmen after his release, and running away with her and a group of smugglers, Carmen gets bored of Don José and sends him back to his mother. She then falls for the enigmatic bullfighter Escamillo and a love triangle ensues, which ends with Don José murdering Carmen in a jealous rage.
Musically, Carmen has given us two of some of the best known operatic arias: the Habanera from Act 1 and the Toreador Song from Act 2. While Bizet adapted ¨L´amour est un oiseau rebelle¨ (the actual name of what is known as the Habanera from Carmen) from what he thought was a folk song, it was actually adapted from the habanera El Arreglito by Spanish composer Sebastián Iradier.
Full of love and passion, Carmen is ripe to be remade and told through dance, and what more appropriate dance than the flirtatious and sensual Argentine Tango? That´s what went through Parasol Arts Creative Director Lorita Travaglia´s head who is the master mind behind this wonderful piece of choreography and dance. Seeing the emotional response of the audience to the 2018 production, she has been excited to present the show for its second year running in Denver Colorado. ¨If a show can move you to tears, it´s a success¨.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kJ44qLr-9fs
Featuring the talents of Donato Juarez as Don José, Diana Cruz as Carmen and Marcelo Molina as Escamillo, Carmen is presented by Parasol Arts which is a professionally operated non-profit organisation providing a space for the collaboration of dancers, musicians, vocalists and creative artists in unique and original theatrical productions. They endeavour to bring the joy and passion of Argentine Tango to new audiences. They have also recently brought us Tango Portraits in Love which is the stories of eight people whose lives are entwined. Their paths cross in a variety of roles (lovers, partners, exes, acquaintances) but ultimately in friendship. It is described as ¨an exploration of love and human relationships through narration of poetry, lyrics, philosophy and Argentine Tango.
While the performances of Carmen the Tango have finished for the season, once a sponsor is found, this show will be on the road in the United States. It would be wonderful to see this interpretation of the opera Tchaikovsky described as ¨a masterpiece in every sense of the word … one of those rare creations which expresses the efforts of a whole musical epoch¨ brought to the home of its dance - Buenos Aires
Review of Carmen the Tango:
“Enthralling!
Bravo bravo!!!!! Bravisimo!!! Bravo!!!!
We both very much enjoyed your CARMEN: the Tango production Lorita, it was absolutely, utterly and completely magnificent!! I say this, as it brought tears of love to my eyes in the last few minutes!
The roles, the costume, the sound, the lighting, the colors, the movement, the expression, the telling… the entire event was magnificently precise and suffuse with fulfilling engagement!
Ahem… Well done, to say the least.
Again, great thanks and gratitude for the blessing of opportunity for our attendance.”
To find out more about Parasol Arts and the beautiful work that they do, you can find more information about the performers, shows and ticket sales on their website:
www.parasolarts.org.
La Boca. You have probably heard of it. It´s a barrio down in the south east corner of Buenos Aires, squished between Barrancas, San Telmo and the River Plata. It houses famous tourist delights and tango milongas, but outside of this tourist area, it remains a relatively poor neighbourhood. However, this year it has a big celebration on its hands.
Celebrating 149 years, this barrio (and indeed the tango dance itself) was heavily influenced by the many immigrants coming from Genoa, Italy in search of a better life. Together with African, Spanish, English, Italian, Polish and Russian cultures, this melting pot crafted out the beginnings of the Argentine tango which has morphed and changed into what we know it to be today. Its beginnings are murky - indeed no direct origin for the word ´tango´ can be found - but it was born from gatherings of slaves and lower class free people, before gaining popularity and being taken out into the word by the traveling rich young upper class of Buenos Aires. Apparently in 1789, authorities placed a ban on tango musical gatherings which probably only served to make it more tantilising than it already was. It is worth noting, that the music and development of tango was not restricted to La Boca, but also was found in Montevideo, Uruguay as well, making it truly a gem of the River Plata.
Back to La Boca. This barrio is proud of its connection to tango, the musicians and writers that have come from its streets, and, of course, being the home to the infamous football team Boca Juniors. La Bombonera is their home stadium and it stands proudly in the middle of this barrio. Come game day, the streets are a mob of blue and yellow, and loud with the music from members of La Doce (or the Twelfth Player) who also dictate which songs are sung throughout the game. You can practically taste the passion. There is even a saying that ¨La Bombonera no tiembla. Late¨ or ¨The Bombonera doesn´t tremble, it beats¨ since its one unique vertical side of seats was known to shake when fans started jumping all together. And the fans jump together often. And wave their arm letting their hand shake towards the team. Their excitement is palpable. Many players have come and played on its holy ground, but probably none arguably as famous as Diego Armando Maradona who returned to finish his playing career for the Boca Juniors.
You have probably also seen the gorgeous pictures of brightly painted walls and the sultry tango couple striking a remarkable pose in front of it. This is El Caminito, a street musuem that was created in 1950 when neighbours and local artist Benito Quinquela Martín, decided to regenerate the area. Martín used the wood and sheet metal buildings as canvas, which were traditionally painted by whatever coloured paint was had left over from boat painting, so they say. El Caminito itself follows a dried up stream that linked to the river, and what had previously been a railway line. The conventillos or communal dwellings were where people lived but also gathered to dance.
If you are out and about over this weekend and want to catch some of the festivities, check out https://www.infobae.com/deportes-2/2019/08/23/el-emotivo-video-de-boca-para-celebrar-el-149-aniversario-del-barrio/. It also has a lovely video about the barrio that is worth watching.
]]>If there is one thing the city of Buenos Aires was definitely made for, it was cycling. For a start, it is a flat as a pancake, with straight streets, in a grid like fashion. The only thing really holding it back is the traffic. As anyone who has taken a taxi ride in Buenos Aires will contest, driving here is very similar to being in a video game, where lines are more suggestions rather than actual lanes to follow, hazard lights flashing mean ¨looking for a carpark but will probably end up just double parked¨, indicators are just for show and very rarely used, the give-way-to-the-right at intersections has exceptions which include who has the biggest car or who is going fastest, the horn is an appropriate way to convey your feelings and speed limits are simply numbers that mean nothing. Biking, really, was taking your life in your hands and you needed eyes in all directions and it was inevitable that you would end up on the bumpy footpath to make sure you arrived safely at your destination.
But all of that has changed since 2015. The city started building more cycleways - also know as bicisendas. These bicycle lanes are dual direction and are separated from the traffic with a little barrier. Usually these remain car free although it has been known to have had irate neighbours who are angry at their parking space being taken, parking in it anyway. In addition to that, the local council has also added Ecobici. Ecobici is the city´s free to use, bright orange bicycle rental system that allows you to access a free bike from almost 400 stations, 24 hours a day, every day of the year. And with 4000 bikes available, there should be one very close to you. There is over 200km of bike lanes interconnected throughout the city including through the infamous ¨green lungs¨ parks of Palermo, so whether you are after a small or large ride, you should be able to bike to your hearts content.
But what has that to do with tango you ask? Well, in today´s climate of sustainable tourism, a tango enthusiast might just find that biking from milonga to milonga is rather a good option instead of opting for waiting for a taxi. There are a few rules about using the bikes which include being over 18 if a tourist, only having an hour (or 2 hours on weekends and holidays) to use the bike before having to return it to a station and needing to use an App on your smart phone. If you need your bike for longer, you can simply return it and wait 5 minutes before asking for another. By using the interactive map at https://www.buenosaires.gob.ar/ecobici/red-ciclovias/estacionamiento, you can see the closest bike station to you and see all the lanes crisscrossing the city.
If you fancy getting out and filling your night dancing tango, you could start off the evening by heading to La Glorieta, the open air milonga held in the old bandstand in Barrancas de Belgrano. Jump on an Ecobici bike and either head to Salon Canning or Club Malcolm in Palermo or even all the way to El Tacuari or La Mariposita in San Telmo. Thinking of finishing off the night at La Viruta in the hope to catch their 5am medialunas? There is an Ecobici station on the corner of Gorriti and Armenia, a block and a half away from the milonga. And rumour has it, the medialunas are totally worth it.
But what about the chaotic traffic, I hear you wonder. Well, cars are not the only thing you have to look out for while biking in this city. In a city where pedestrians are always in the right, new bike lanes are taking some getting used to for porteños who are used to only dealing with chaotic traffic. It is not uncommon for people to simply step out to cross the road without looking both ways, or to wait at an intersection standing right in the bike lane. Otherwise, get out there, feel the wind in your hair (no helmets required!), and enjoy all this city has to offer on two wheels.
]]>(Photo Credit and Copyright Rebecca Travaglia 2013)
The city is in the grip of autumn with winter nipping at its heels. The trees are either bare or holding onto the last of their fluttering yellow and green leaves. The only pops of colour come from the orange trees that are found in various barrios lining the sides of the streets. Grey merges into grey as the concrete skyline blends into the moody skies that are accompanying this season. However, this is one of the best times that travelling the city with a soundtrack of tango just makes sense. You can feel the sadness and lament of the lyrics reflected in the puddled cobblestone streets, and sense glints of hope and warmth that lie hidden behind the closed and shuttered doors and windows. Strains of tango music creep under doors and down stairways, enticing you in from the sadness of the streets into a celebration of dance. And a malbec or two.
Porteños (local Buenos Aires residents), from what I can tell, are creatures of warmth and go into hibenation at the first sign of the artic wind and a cloudy sky. They rug up warm and reluctantly head outdoors if they have to, bustling through the narrow streets with head down, usually to make it to their nearest cafe for a piping hot coffee. But head to a milonga, and you are greeted with a different type of porteño. Away from the cold wind and with the warmth of a tango abrazo (embrace) , the spark of the people returns.
Tango is a myriad of sentiments all mixed into one. It has the grit of the street and the beauty of love. It has the darkness of night mixed with the light of hope. It has the sentiment of loneliness whilst danced in an embrace of connection. The music can have the forlorn lament of sadness with the melodic embelishments of desires and dreams. It comes from the streets where this juxtaposition of worlds exists. Simply walk only a few blocks within the central city to pass from the gritty streets of San Telmo, the grandeur of Avenida de Mayo and into the parisian opulence of Recoleta.
The great tango writers took inspiration from the streets and from love, for their lyrics and melodies. A great song to take you through this season is Rosa de Otoño or Autumn Rose. Written in 1923, it is a Vals (or waltz) that was made famous by Carlos Gardel (the golden boy of tango). A love song, it expresses his love for a girl/the city/tango (it never really is explicit although we can assume it is love for a woman) and that without her, he will become sick. Despite all that he suffers, he remains ever hopeful and that is reflected through the melody that weaves its way through the vals.
So if you are out on this overcast autumn day, why not add Rosa de Otoño to your playlist for a beautiful soundtrack as you walk the streets of Buenos Aires.
Artist and Poet María Paz Levinson. Photo copyright Rebecca T
The thing I love about Buenos Aires are its hidden gems. They aren’t hidden exactly, but they are not screaming at you from each corner. It requires a lot of walking and an inquisitive nature to find what exactly is behind that grungy old door half way down that potentially dodgy looking street that looks like it could be a half in Lima and half in 1984. Of course, it is easy to find the nice places in the areas that look like they are part of an antique Paris, but while these can offer comfort, they usually lack the character of the real BsAs.
One morning after first moving here, I was bemoaning the fact that there are no cafes near my house to my early morning commuter buddy, I was made to eat my words (thankfully in the form of medialunas) as I happened to look across the intersection from my door to see a perfectly acceptable small cafe open for business. Let’s remember that I’ve been living in my current apartment for nigh on two months and this is the first time this cafe’s bright blue doors have made themselves known to me. And it was duly noted. Next time I have a desperate early morning need for coffee, I know I only have to roll out of bed and walk about 20 metres.
The schizophrenic nature of the buildings in this city impresses upon you the need to not judge this place by its cover. Last Sunday I was taken to an unimpressive corner building to eat some of the best fresh home made pasta around. From the outside, it could have been any type of restaurant from the 80s. Inside, the 1980s theme continued with the concrete walls adorned with a mishmash of artifacts from over the years. Old tango vinyl, pictures of what can only be assumed to be the owner´s favourite fútbol team, photographs of tango dancers and the obligatory argentinian flag, swaying in the wind produced by the air conditioner which frantically worked to take the chill out of the air.
Two women sat at the entrance of the restaurant, busy rolling the soft dough into various long worm looking shapes, crafting the delicacy that was soon to be enjoyed by the onslaught of lunchtime customers. And it was good pasta. Not just good but extremely good. The mafioso type family run business is a local institution (so my local guide tells me), which, before he died, had included the father of the family walking around handing out change from large wads of rolled up bills. As this was prior to the non smoking law that came in recently in Buenos Aires, it didn’t take much imagination to envision the head of the family chewing on a cigar as he schmoozed with his customers and friends, probably planning all sorts of mafia mischief.
Another not so hidden, but out of the way gem is Lo de Roberto. This bar is the smallest bar I have squeezed into with other people since my uni days when we used to frequent the aptly named Inch Bar (which for the record, only just qualifies as having enough room to swing a cat). Strains of tango guitar greeted us as we opened the door and it took just two steps from the door to reach the only bar stools left in the entire place. Those gathered to listen were nursing their drinks and dreamily listening to the laments of tango, respectfully waiting until the musician´s break before resuming their conversations. A small tango bar located beside Plaza Almargo and opened by 1984. Retaining a youthful feel by the artistic students that frequent it, it is well known as being a place to enjoy a wine and a very intimate performance of tango.
One favourite memory from this city was another hidden gem which we enjoyed from the depths of a Centro cultural whose single glass door entry way is off of the tourist infested Florida. In the bowels of the building with just a sprinkling of other people, we enjoyed poetry and music from two local artists and poets. These intimate gigs are in abundance in this city, but its a matter of finding them. This is when you will feel that you get to experience the real BsAs.
El Momento Era Subir
De María Paz Levinson
Las noches de nieve eran divertidas
Subir la cuesta con los esquíes en la mano
Para tirarnos y llegar rápido hasta la ruta de abajo
Lo hacíamos en la noche hasta cansarnos
Y así llegábamos al fondo del invierno
Cada tanto autos en ambas direcciones
Cruzando la noche muy despacio con vidrios de hielo
La nieve se veía anaranjada
Las casas se iban apagando
Llenábamos las petacas con un licor fuerte
Era de guindas y estaba en un mueble oscuro
El botellón como una gota de sangre gigante
Y así llegábamos al fondo del invierno
]]>
Photo credit: Nick Kenrick 2014
The skies were grey and threatening and I tried not to let that dampen my spirits as I kept walking down the deserted main street. Cursing under my breath for being so late, I hurried along trying to find any sign of street numbers to guide me in the direction of the small bar that apparently lay within the block of shops. I was on my way to meet friends in a town where, many years ago, I had danced many a milonga. But the facade of the main street had changed so much since my time that I had trouble locating the little bar where the milonga was held. It wasn't until I was almost on top of the front stoop when the strains of the bandoneon reached my ears and through the dimly lit window I could make out dancing partners at the end of the narrow building.
Breathing a sigh of relief, I shook off the gloomy day and entered into the warmth of the local milonga. A small community of dancers met every week here, and through the strength of their passion this dance is kept alive in this small town. Among the familiar faces, there were new faces - always a good thing at milongas as new faces bring new dance styles into the mix.
Walking into a milonga during a tanda (set of songs to dance to), can be slightly odd. In this case, all the familiar faces were partnered up and moving through their own bubbles on the dance floor, which meant there was no one to greet me back into this old world. There was time to sit, put on shoes and smile at those others who were unfamiliar to me also sitting at their tables. This changed once the tanda ended, and I was swept up into a myriad of hugs and kisses and exclamations of surprise from those who didn't know I was back in town.
There aren't a lot of situations in which catching up with old friends means dancing with them. You can say a lot through tango, as you bring more than just physical movement to the dance. Connection to both self and your partner are so important and depending on how you are emotionally that day, can affect the way you dance. So the best way to catch up with an old dancing friend is to do that - simply dance. It lets you catch up on the intangible without interruption.
This particular milonga had a wonderful feeling to it. The skies eventually opened up and rain poured down, adding to the cosy feel of the little wooden bar. The dance floor was small and snug, but just with enough space for those couple to navigate with ease. The afternoon was peppered with lively conversation as well as wonderful tandas. On the way home, as I watched the street lamps light up the rain on the bus, it got me thinking about how tango really does bring a sense of community to its dancers. While there are different circles - those who dance strictly traditional or those who have broken the embrace to dance a fluid open style, you are able to find a place to settle and those friends who dance a similar style, at least in my experience, will always welcome you with open arms. An interesting characteristic since the music we dance to laments solitude, broken hearts, lost love and all manner of seemingly depressing romances.
I remember those first lessons, where all you seemed to do is practice walking. The stark light of the studio, the glaring mirrors highlighting those robotic movements you are working hard to lose, and the thought that maybe you might never learn how to relax into the movement and gather the grace and flow those dancers you admire all seem to possess in grand quantities. But with time and patience, through repeatedly dancing with those in the community, by reminding yourself that heading out to a milonga at night will actually improve your mood rather than depress you, confidence starts to take over and the tango bug threatens to bite. It made me smile, thinking back to the moment when I knew I was under the tango spell.
So if you are looking for a change or to do a new activity, just remember - if you can walk, you can tango. And with one class you open the door to invite in a whole new community.
]]>If you were out and about in Avenida de Mayo on Saturday 8th December, you would have found yourself in a wonderland of tango. Three stages, live music and a mixture of both dancing high heels and sneakers would have greeted you as you meandered your way along the infamous Buenos Aires street.
La Gran Milonga Nacional is a yearly staple in Buenos Aires since 2007. It preempts the National Day of Tango which is celebrated on the 11th December - also incidently the birthday of the golden boy of tango, Carlos Gardel, who would be celebrating his 128th birthday if he could be here with us today. La Gran Milonga Nacional is when Avenida de Mayo transforms itself into a 8000sqm dance floor for anyone inclined, complete with seating for those wishing to sit and enjoy, and a sprinkling of magic with hundreds of fairy lights. For those who are used to smaller milonga halls, it can be a shock to see just how many tourists and locals alike can be crammed into such a big space and still find a way to dance without trodding on toes. You are also quite likely to find people dancing where ever they can find space - whether that is in a designated area, or simply in the corner behind the chairs.
Most amazing to admire perhaps, is the ability for two people dancing together to get lost in the moment of the music and movement with each other, rather than being acutely aware of the hundreds of other people dancing around them. This is what makes tango so special. While the leader must still have a sense of whats around them and how others are moving about the floor, nothing really exists between the two dancers except the ´here and now´ within the music. And nothing makes this more evident than watching a follower with their eyes closed, on a crowded street/dance floor with their leader dreamily moving smoothly together, seemingly dancing in an invisible bubble oblivious of those around them.
Also, you will notice that the high kicks and lightening speed flicks that you see during tango shows, is not present in a milonga such as this. This is traditional milonga, which has been danced for many many years in halls (and probably alleyways) of this city. The most important part of this style isn´t whether you can do some amazing dance move. It is if you can connect and be with your dance partner for those three songs and enjoy the moment with them. Which sounds quite easy if it is at an outdoor milonga, under a clear sky, with a warm breeze, and right in the beating heart of the City of Tango.
That said, if you did manage to make it and to stay late (in true porteño style), then you would have been in for a treat as the Piazzolla Tango Show dancers gave a dazzling performance for the audience. These performers work hard at their art, and to be able to convey a sense of ease when performing such daring moves in high slitted dresses and high heels, is deserving of all the credit they get.
If you missed the milonga, make sure you head out for a tango treat on the 11th December - whether that means watching an orchestra, dancing a tango or taking a class. You won´t regret it.
]]>
There have always been rumours that you can find people dancing on the street in the suburbs of Buenos Aires - that tango runs so deeply in the veins of the porteños that they just can´t help themselves. While I am yet to find two people dancing at a bus stop (although have seen ladies practicing low boleos/kicks before at 5.30am in the morning after a milonga), dancing on the street does indeed happen and usually is encompassed in a local tango festival.
You may be familiar with the World Championships and Tango Festival that occurs annually around August here in Buenos Aires. It´s the most important tango event of the year. But scattered across the year are smaller locally organised independent festivals including Urchasdonia which is cementing a place on the tango calender every November.
Urchasdonia is your true barrio festival. Organised by a group of tango lovers from the neighbourhoods, Urchasdonia encompasses the neighbourhoods Parque Chass, Urquiza, Villa Pueyrredon and Agronomia. These are not unknown neighbourhoods to true barrio tango. Milongas such as Sunderland, Milonga del Moran and Sin Rumbo are famously located in these suburbs and are known to both local and international tangueros. The cafe, El Faro is like a tango beacon right in the middle of the area and is well known for supporting tango, having hosted many performances by tango singers and musicians. The infamous Alberto Podesta performed there to a packed audience that spilled out of the tiny bar onto the street in order to hear the last voice of the golden age of tango. It has been holding its place against the ever changing face of the neighbourhood since 1931.
This was the 2nd year of the festival Urchasdonia and while only 4 days long, it included some wonderful performances. A highlight was the theatre performance of both song and dance at Centro Cultural 25 de Mayo. But it wasn´t only for adults to head out and enjoy, it also took to the streets with a mural painting and a specific tango music performance for children.
While only a small little group of no more than 12 children aged from 2 months to 10 years old gathered, it was big hearts that brought together these tiny lovers of tango. The opportunity to listen to live musicians playing tangos adapted for little ears in a park was too good to pass up. The usually rambunctious little porteños sat transfixed while a short set was played by the musicians Dipi Kvitko, Damián Rovner and local singer Hernán Cucuza Castiello.
Like with many types of music, tango music can be seen to be too complicated for children appreciate. But the truth is, music is music to children and dance is dance, so the opportunity to be exposed to these from early on is an opportunity to develop an ear for new rhythms, instruments and form of expression.
So if you are looking for a way to experience more tango in a different way, keep an eye out for these festivals as it is a great way to support the beating heart of tango in this city.
]]>
Photo Credit: Ornella M. on Flickr.com
Since there is no definitive ¨best tango show¨in Buenos Aires, it can be overwhelming to sift through the myriad of tango shows on offer to find the one that will be the gem of your experience in this intoxicating city. Whether you are the discerning milonguero, a travelling family of four, or the budget conscious backpacker, there is a tango show for everyone. Everything from a full evening experience including three course dinner and show, or a show-only option as an injection of tango into your evening.
Family Friendly Tango
Just because you have little ones in tow, doesn´t mean you can´t enjoy an evening out together, after all, this is a city where it is common to find children of all ages out at all times of night. All the tango shows are free for babies under 2 years old and give a 50% discount for children aged between 2 and 10 years old. Shows in larger theatres such as Esquina Carlos Gardel or Cafe de los Angelitos are probably going to be more relaxing for children and parents alike, and older children may enjoy the added cultural elements of Sabor a Tango.
Keep in mind that the shows often have a dark atmosphere during the show (for those more sensitive children) and that prams are more than likely best left at home or at the door as the tables are usually quite close together and/or there are stairs to navigate. Changing tables in bathrooms at the shows are a rare sight, so prepare for there not being one.
Tried and Tested
These tango shows are long-standing favourites amongst the visitors to Buenos Aires but do not be put off by the extent of their popularity - these places have not become the fast food giants of tango shows. They have authentic charm and flawless shows and work hard to keep up their good reputation. The Esquina Carlos Gardel tango show is steeped in history and is held in the old theatre haunt of tango legend Carlos Gardel. If you’re staying in the heart of the popular old tango district San Telmo, El Viejo Almacen brings to life its small historic ballroom and La Ventana delights you in a warm 1940s vintage wine cellar ambience.
Romance and Intimacy
Who can’t help but fall for the romantic charm of Buenos Aires. For those looking for an opulent and luscious romantic experience in an intimate ambience, then look no further than Gala Tango and Rojo Tango. These shows offer superb VIP packages in a elegant and cosy atmosphere where you can be close enough to see the sequins on the dancers’ costumes. Those looking for the romance of a theatre setting should head to Cafe de los Angelitos, whose refined baby blue and gold theatre makes for a charming evening.
For the Dancer Within - a tango lesson
If you’re more of a hands on type traveler, you might be eager to dip your toes into the tango waters before watching the professionals. While you won’t be learning leg flicks and high boleos, many shows including La Ventana, Complejo Tango, Gala Tango and Piazzolla Tango offer a free tango lesson before the show and the chance to also meet one or two of the performers who assist in these classes.
NB: While the one hour tango lessons are included in the dinner packages, they require reservation so make sure you request the tango lesson when making your purchase.
The Historians
For those looking for the historic ghosts of the traditional tango, look no further than El Querandi or El Viejo Almacen, both of whom pays tribute to the history of tango. These golden gems offer their guests a trip back down memory lane sticking to traditional music, compositions and ambience. For the musicians amongst you, the show Piazzolla Tango is dedicated to the 1950s music composed by Astor Piazzolla - a bandoneon player who brought tango to the orchestra scene - and whose music is known extensively throughout the world.
A Modern Twist
For those who are looking for something modern and contemporary, some shows are now embracing the ever-evolving branch of modern tango into their shows. With brighter lights and dynamic stage productions, these shows can offer an entertaining and spectacular show. Set in the heart of the glitzy suburb of Puerto Madero, Madero Tango offers a stunning view of the Rio De La Plata, reminding patrons of the humble seafaring immigrants who created the tango dance. If you’re truly looking for something different, try Señor Tango - whose round stage and innovative lighting guarantees a spectacular show.
Tango and Folk Music
The other child of Argentine music is folk music. It is to the campo (countryside) what tango is to the city. A dynamic and charming style, its rhythms are strong, its sentiments joyful and its sound is warm. Some shows such as La Ventana and El Viejo Almacen, include an injection of Andean music and gauncho dance in their tango shows. The boleadoras set is not to be missed as a male dancer dressed as a gaucho (cowboy) uses two long ropes, each with a ball at the end, to accompany his zapateo (shoe tapping dance). It is dynamic, rhythmic and energetic. Sabor a Tango’s high quality folklore act comes recommended for those eager for a show with a bit more than tango.
Budget Conscious Traveller
Limited funds does not mean limited options. There are tango shows that deliver a quality show for those with a smaller budget so you don’t have to miss out. So if you prefer something with a showcase note (Taconeando was founded by the 1920s Argentine star Beba Bidart) or related to tango music’s history (Esquina Homero Manzi pays homage to tango writer Homero Manzi), or something with sumptuous decor (Sabor a Tango is housed in Palacio Rossini which was home to the Opera Singers Guild), be sure to check out these budget-friendly options.
Upgrading to VIP
Everyone loves an upgrade, so what exactly is your VIP upgrade getting you? The options can include a guarantee of a private booth or a balcony seat on a higher floor (Piazzolla Tango, Esquina Carlos Gardel, Cafe de los Angelitos) or front row seating (Madero Tango, La Ventana, El Querandi, Complejo Tango) which gives you and your date privacy and a clearer view of those amazing dancers. Upgrading to VIP also includes a more elaborate menu with more course options and finer wine choices to accompany your meal.
Reviews
Still want to read a little more about your options? Here are some happy Tangotix customers who enjoyed the shows so much that they wanted to share their experience on TripAdvisor. Click on the show you’ve chosen to read what they had to say about the show:
(Photo copyright Beatrice Murch)
I am pretty sure that I was at least 10 years old before I had the stamina to stay up until midnight. Christmas night was rather sporadic in sleep but I was always out like a light by 1030pm or 11pm despite how hard I tried to stay awake. But if you have just spent Christmas in Buenos Aires, you will have realised that it is most normal for children of all ages (from babies upwards) to be up until the wee small hours of the morning since Christmas Eve dinner is the most important part of Christmas celebrations. As the clock strikes midnight to welcome in Christmas Day, the children head outside to see the fireworks and the remaining adults quickly shuffle all the hidden presents under the tree. When said children walk back into the house, there are exclaims of "Goodness me did anyone see Papa Noel do that!?" and "A big man in a suit dropped these off while you were outside!" (note, these are not direct translations but rather the gist of the exclamations) admist the squeals of delight as children revel in doing what they do best at Christmas time - ripping off wrapping paper. Clearly late nights are in these people's genes.
And judging by the mid 30s temperatures we have been having lately, New Year in the city is promising to be a sweltering and sweaty affair unless you are underneath the air conditioning. Many northern hemisphere dwellers understandably don't really feel it's Christmas when spending December down in the southern hemisphere. Christmas lights don't make sense when it is light until after 9pm, eating a big meal during a heatwave seems ludicrous and most people seem to celebrate outside on their terraces or patios, making Christmas a much louder affair in the streets. New Year's parties in warm weather, however, makes for pleasant outdoor all night affairs.
While the fireworks displays are not as they once were (much to the relief of many domestic animals), the stroke of midnight on both Christmas Day and New Year's Day bring many people and families out into the streets in Buenos Aires. Traffic jams are rather frequent in the wee small hours of the morning as everyone is either making their way to either their own or another family member's house for more gift giving and best wishes.
It is highly recommended over the holiday season to prebook everything. Public transportation can seem non existent on the holiday days as they run a very reduced schedule and delays are inevitable. Many restaurants require reservations as well.
If you are in the city for New Years Eve and wish to make it memorable and unique (and cool with the assured comfort of air conditioning), be sure to check out some of the local tango shows. Most offer free transfers which means you don't need to fight to get a taxi to get there or back, and with a variety of packages that can also include meals and drinks, it means your night is well taken care of. Transfers, cocktails, dinner, tango show - all followed by parties until the wee small hours of the morning. Madero Tango is even offering the additional surprise of watching fireworks go off over the docks of Puerto Madero. Whether it’s traditional (Esquina Carlos Gardel, Cafe de Los Angelitos), romantic (Gala Tango, La Ventana), extravagant (Madero Tango, Señor Tango, Rojo Tango) or bohemian (El Viejo Almacen, El Querandi), you´re sure to find a New Year´s Eve tango show that suits your style.
Whatever you decide to do, we hope you had a wonderful Christmas and that you all have a safe and Happy New Year.
Photo credit to Claudio (Tangoblivian) 2009
If you’re in the city at the moment, you may have noticed a huge influx of tourists and locals alike carrying tango shoe bags, spilling out from old buildings after classes and practicing boleos by bus stops. Okay, maybe not the boleos, but cafes will be filled with more people talking volcadas and sacadas than any other time of the year.
The Tango Festival and World Championships has already kicked off here in Buenos Aires, meaning the city is extra full of the tango spark. Running from the 10th August until the 23rd August, this year’s event is full of free concerts, performances, milongas, classes and of course, the Mundial de Tango - where hundreds of dancers from all over the world come to compete for the crown of World Champions.
There are two categories for the World Championship - traditional tango salon in which the dance is improvised as what normally happens at a milonga; and escenario which is choreographed stage tango as you see when you head to a tango show. Both categories offer fantastic insight into the different faces of tango.
The festival also has its own product fair where you can buy shoes and clothes, allowing you to browse some of the city’s best specialists all in one place.
While not the easiest to navigate, here you have the official website with the program. You can search by place (easy to find things happening near you), day by day or venues. The English button is on the top right hand corner if you don’t feel like practicing your spanish.
http://festivales.buenosaires.gob.ar/2017/tangofestivalymundial/es/home
Need some recommendations to start you off?
DANCE
Natacha Poberaj is a former World Champion, winning the 2007 championship while 7 or 8 months pregnant. Gallego Manolo dances canyengue style tango which is a playful style of tango which was a ‘street’ style of dance used around the 1900s.
It goes without saying that getting tickets to the Final or Semi Finals is well worth the effort but these usually are sold out very quickly. If you feel like seeing some great shows, head along to a milonga to see some wonderful artists performing.
MUSIC
Esteban Morgado Cuarteto is an internationally renowned tango guitarist who will be performing a wide variety of works for people to enjoy
And if you are a Piazzolla fan, you are in for a treat! There are several ensembles taking on this master’s work over the 19th, 20th and 21st August. Be sure to check out at least one of these great acts.
http://festivales.buenosaires.gob.ar/2017/tangofestivalymundial/en/schedule&names=Suite%20Piazzolla
]]>Photo credit to Claudio (Tangoblivian) 2009
If you’re in the city at the moment, you may have noticed a huge influx of tourists and locals alike carrying tango shoe bags, spilling out from old buildings after classes and practicing boleos by bus stops. Okay, maybe not the boleos, but cafes will be filled with more people talking volcadas and sacadas than any other time of the year.
The Tango Festival and World Championships has already kicked off here in Buenos Aires, meaning the city is extra full of the tango spark. Running from the 10th August until the 23rd August, this year’s event is full of free concerts, performances, milongas, classes and of course, the Mundial de Tango - where hundreds of dancers from all over the world come to compete for the crown of World Champions.
There are two categories for the World Championship - traditional tango salon in which the dance is improvised as what normally happens at a milonga; and escenario which is choreographed stage tango as you see when you head to a tango show. Both categories offer fantastic insight into the different faces of tango.
The festival also has its own product fair where you can buy shoes and clothes, allowing you to browse some of the city’s best specialists all in one place.
While not the easiest to navigate, here you have the official website with the program. You can search by place (easy to find things happening near you), day by day or venues. The English button is on the top right hand corner if you don’t feel like practicing your spanish.
http://festivales.buenosaires.gob.ar/2017/tangofestivalymundial/es/home
Need some recommendations to start you off?
DANCE
Natacha Poberaj is a former World Champion, winning the 2007 championship while 7 or 8 months pregnant. Gallego Manolo dances canyengue style tango which is a playful style of tango which was a ‘street’ style of dance used around the 1900s.
It goes without saying that getting tickets to the Final or Semi Finals is well worth the effort but these usually are sold out very quickly. If you feel like seeing some great shows, head along to a milonga to see some wonderful artists performing.
MUSIC
Esteban Morgado Cuarteto is an internationally renowned tango guitarist who will be performing a wide variety of works for people to enjoy
And if you are a Piazzolla fan, you are in for a treat! There are several ensembles taking on this master’s work over the 19th, 20th and 21st August. Be sure to check out at least one of these great acts.
http://festivales.buenosaires.gob.ar/2017/tangofestivalymundial/en/schedule&names=Suite%20Piazzolla
]]>Photo credit: LWYang on Flickr.
For something a little different, here are some unusual things you might encounter on your visit to Buenos Aires. Are there any other eccentricities from this city that stood out for you?
Argentine futbol fans are passionate beyond belief.
In Buenos Aires, the rival teams are Boca Juniors and River Plate. You can not like both. It is simply impossible. Even small children can become upset when finding out their new school friends are supporters of the other team. Game day includes busloads of estactic fans, leaning out of windows chanting and waving their shirts around. Boca Juniors has their own world famous band at all their games banging their drums and chanting a variety of songs which even the youngest fans sing along with. Some people even leave work early or arrive late just because they wanted to stay home to watch the game.
Mate (pronounced MAH-teh) is shared at many social gatherings.
The ´don´t share your drink bottle´ rule does not apply at many Argentine social gatherings as the famous mate (tea leaves in a gourd) is passed around the group and shared amongst all those who want to participate. There are a set of ´rules´ about how to make mate and participate in the round, which are generally followed but the most important for beginners to remember is not to move the bombilla (drinking straw). The tea is not to be stirred!
Drinkable yoghurt comes in sachets remarkably similar to normal milk.
While drinkable yoghurt in sachets is perhaps not a terribly different thing in the world, the surprise it can bring to those who do not understand spanish and pay little attention when trying to distinguish which ¨milk¨ they are buying from the fridge, makes it worth noting. Consider yourself warned so you don´t need to find out first hand what happens when you accidently pour strawberry yoghurt into your coffee. Handy hint: make sure it says Leche.
Most road markings are simply suggestions.
When it comes to intersections, the official rule is ´give way to the right´. In real life, it is usually first come first served, or whomever is going the fastest or whichever car/bus/truck is biggest. You will find some stop signs placed at some intersections, but these are merely to suggest that this intersection is more dangerous than others so it might pay to slow down a little. Painted lines on the road seem rather decorative than to serve any purpose and some larger streets (ie capable of fitting 5 cars wide) do not even have lanes painted on them. And as for indicators on the car, it appears that many porteños are unaware what that lever on the steering wheel is for. Hazard lights, in contrast, are used frequently to communicate many things including, ´trouble uphead!´ and ´I am looking for a parking spot´ and even ´I am just double parking while I run in to buy some bread at the bakery´.
Icecream can be delivered by the kilo
Porteños love their icecream. Summertime means late and super hot nights where shops are open til the wee hours and full of rambunctious children of all ages. If you are with friends and have a craving for icecream in the middle of the night, you can get it delivered right to your door without having to leave the air-conditioned comfort of your living room.
Don´t touch the fruit.
When you run out of fruit, you do not have to look far to find a local fruit and veggie place - conveniently obvious by the large crates of fruit stacked precariously out the front of a little doorway. Most places prefer that you don´t select your own fruit, but stand there listing one by one, the variety of things you need. It seems most people shop in small amounts (foreign ´locals´ can stand out by their long lists of weekly shopping) so as not to hold up the line.
Dulce de leche runs in the veins of almost everything.
You probably expected to see a lot of dulce de leche (caramelised condensed milk). It is no secret that it is what fuels most Argentines throughout the day. But perhaps you were not quite prepared to the extent that dulce de leche rules the baking section of this country. It is smeared over and between layers of cakes (it is considered an acceptable way to ice a cake), it oozes out of alfajores, it is piped into medialunas and facturas (pastries) and is one of the most popular icecream flavours. You can even buy an ice cream cone piped full with just, you guessed it, dulce de leche. Warning: consuming that amount of dulce de leche in one go is not for the faint hearted.
Entrepreneurial sellers in most forms of public transport.
Not only buskers, Buenos Aires also has public transport sellers. You name it, they sell it. Announcing themselves to the passengers (each trying to make themselves distinct), they make their way through crowded carriages selling their goods. One single train/subway/bus trip will expose you to a variety of opportunities to purchase batteries, socks, teatowels, chocolates, baking, nail scissors, battery packs, pens, note books, sewing kits, children's books, lollies, card holders, earphones … the list seems endless. But you never know when you might need an emergency toenail clipper or have a sudden need for a bar of chocolate to keep you company on your commute.
Not everyone dances tango.
It´s true. There are not sensual strangers dancing under a street light on every corner in San Telmo. Some porteños are even known to start learning how to dance tango while travelling in another country. Whilst tango beats strongly beneath this monstrosity of a city, it is only a select population of locals who involve themselves in dance. Tango music is a little more accessible to the entire population and you will definitely be hearing it at some point during your stay whether at a cafe, a neighbour´s apartment or someone singing in the street
The tradition of dog walking.
One of the most impressive things of the city, is turning to the corner and being confronted with a happy pack of 12 dogs walking orderly around one figure. While the laws of the city state that dog walkers can not walk more than 8 dogs at a time, one walk through the parks and streets of Palermo or Recoleta shows that some dog walkers are flaunting this - some with up to 15 dogs. The dogs seem to love it, happily panting their way together towards the local park where sometimes, several walkers meet up and the dogs spend their energy playing with each other.
]]>It has been over two years since bright red leather high heels have adorned my feet. I have been in a tango embrace just a handful of times during this period, if dancing in the kitchen counts as dancing tango. Needless to say, it was high time to get back on the horse and see what had changed in the world of tango and whether or not it really is like riding a bike and you never forget.
It was with trepidation and a familiar feeling of butterflies-in-the-stomach, that I approached my first night out in this fair city, at the milonga where it had all started. Milonga Del Moran has been around for eight years, and is a grand lady of ‘barrio milonga’ - neighbourhood milonga. Held in Club Moran in Villa Pueyrredon, this monthly milonga is run by a young trio of people with an immense passion for tango. Marcelo Lavergata and Lucila Bardach run a class prior to the milonga which welcomes all levels of tango dancers. DJ Mariano Romero keeps a steady flow of tango, vals and milonga throughout the night, drawing on his immense knowledge of tango music to create varied tandas for all tastes.
Two days after I first arrived in Buenos Aires in 2011, a new friend kindly offered to show me around the city before ending up at a milonga - Milonga Del Moran. Exactly six years later, this now husband was again taking me to the same milonga which happens to be in our neighbourhood. However, I was apprehensive with fears (both old and new). Would I remember how to move in a tango embrace? Would I be able to follow the lead? Would I tense up and forget all that I had worked so hard to overcome in the weekly lessons and numerous milongas that I had attended during the height of my tango addiction? Would I remember how to connect with my dance partner? Questions, doubts, anxiety - it seemed a little strange to have all these within when I was now more knowledgeable about tango and was heading to a milonga with a guarantee of dancing (it is handy having a partner who also dances).
But I need not have worried. My fears are calmed once we walked inside. Instead of a peck on the cheek that greeted me all those years ago, I receive a warm, long embrace from the organisers who have now become friends. My feet slip easily into the old comfort of tango dance shoes and the tango addition bug starts to stir within. I see some familiar faces waving to us from within the crowd, pleased to see us out on the dance floor once again. I am more relaxed dancing now that I know that no one is judging how I dance (an easy worry to fall into for new dancers dancing here in Buenos Aires for the first time - rest assured no one is really paying THAT much attention to you). I even manage to find two fellow kiwi tango dancers, far from home and happy to be experiencing the relaxed barrio milonga vibe that Moran gives. As I sit and talk to them, I realise how far I have come with tango and how it is not a dance that I do anymore, but a part of my new culture and life.
My feet seem to remember what to do despite my ankles giving a little protest at stretching in ways they haven’t for a long time. The tango embrace still gives the warmth and acceptance that it always have, and the music still swirls around, taking you to another world during the tanda. It was only a short evening (as late night milongas are rather a stretch for this old girl now) but one that has left me wanting more.
Things to know:
Milonga Del Moran
https://www.facebook.com/la.delmoran/
Held monthly (usually around the third week of the month) on Saturdays.
Class from 8pm, Milonga from 9.30pm.
Club Social y Deportivo Moran
Pedro Moran 2446
Agronomia, Buenos Aires
Think of tango music and an image of a man with a fedora, singing his soul out all for the love of a woman or Buenos Aires (or both) is easily conjured up. You could be forgiven for thinking that women tango singers don´t exist as so much of the popular tango music is sung by men and Carlos Gardel has his image well ingrained as THE singer of tango music.
But whilst driving in our car the other week, listening to one of the myriad of tango radio stations, I was pleasantly surprised to hear a very antique recording of a woman singing which got me thinking about how little I knew about the women who wove their own magic into tango music.
The Golden Age of Tango is generally agreed as being from the mid 1930s through to the early 1950s. Throughout this time there were many women who left their mark on the tango scene. Here we give you just a quick taste of three to whet your appetite.
Azucena Maizani
Azucena Maizani has been considered as the female equivelant of Carlos Gardel - rising quickly in the 1920s with her talent as a performer on stage and radio. Not only a performer, she was also a lyricist and composer and her song ´Pero Yo Se´ was recorded by Angel D´Agostino in 1942. Interestingly, she was knowing for portraying her female characters as suit wearing, tough yet sensitive and romantic male figures - a figure which is well ingrained in tango. She suffered many tragedies throughout her life and sadly died in 1970 after a stroke several years earlier that she never fully recovered from. She recorded 270 tracks during her career and here is one for your listening pleasure:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=65POcgqA6Ok
Libertad Lamarque
Libertad Lamarque was awarded the Konex Platinum Award for ¨Best Tango Singer in Argentina¨ in 1985, cementing her place in Tango Singer History. An actress and a singer, she performed in film, stage and music throughout her career amassing a staggering amount of recordings (above 800) and appearing in 65 movies. Rumours abound about a rift between her and Eva Peron as they both appeared in La Cabalgata del Circo together and she had mentioned several times the lack of respect Peron had given to the film and those involved.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uQ8A9punz4I&feature=youtu.be
Ada Falcon
Setting Ada Falcon apart from her peers was her mezzo-soprano voice. At a time where most women singers were sopranos, Falcon reached fame through singing with the orchestra of Francisco Canaro. She recorded over 200 songs during the 20s and 30s - the peak of her career. She was involved romantically with Canaro but he refused to leave his wife. Suddenly in 1942, she withdrew from public life and became a recluse, eventually leaving behind all the glamour and expensive lifestyle she had previously thrived on and moved to Cordoba to live as a tertiary nun, eventually dying in 2002. She is buried in Chacarita Cemetary and there is a film about her life.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eePCfnNayb4
If this is something you would like to explore further, visit Female Tango Singers Milonga Project https://www.facebook.com/TangoFemenino/. The woman running it has shown just how much female tango music there is out there that should be listened to. It makes for an interesting playlist with 173 songs available. It is also interesting to delve into the mostly tragic lives that these artists had, as dramatic and soulful as the music they sang.
]]>(photo credit: Beatrice Murch)
Feliz Navidad! The festive season is upon us again and with the splash of purple springtime now well past, the sun is heating up for what will undoubtedly be a sweltering summer week of festive celebrations.
If you have never experienced a summer Christmas before, you're in for some distinct differences. Christmas lights don't seem to make sense as having just passed Summer Solstice means the days are at their longest; everyone is out and about in flip flops, singlets and shorts; and having a very large meal (usually meat filled) just seems to go against all logic but it is what we southern hemisphere dwellers do.
Buenos Aires in years past has lit up with an abundance of fireworks when welcoming in Christmas Day and New Year, and while this tradition still continues, it has somewhat lessened probably due to the fact that it can be up to 35 degrees come midnight and no one really wants to head outside away from their air conditioners. Nevertheless, it is a noisy family occasion and traffic jams continue well into the wee small hours as family members move between houses wishing each other well and entertaining the noctural children with gift giving.
So if you are in Buenos Aires, the most logical thing to do is to make your own celebrations sparkle with a little bit of tango. After all, the magical essence of the city will be sure to make your own festivities just that little bit more special. Only La Ventana, Gala Tango, El Viejo Almacen, Piazzolla Tango and Madero Tango are offering special shows on Christmas Eve. Each has a unique evening planned that usually includes welcome cocktails, a gala dinner, elaborate tango show and after the midnight toast, a party with a DJ and regular shuttles back to hotels.
Since transport over the festive season is very limited (and in light of the recent transport strikes), booking your tango show can take all the hard work out of figuring how to move about the city as most offer free transfers. Note that on celebration days between the hours of 9pm and 3am, there are almost no buses or taxis.
If you are arriving between Christmas and New Year and still want to get in a tango show, most are offering specially planned events to welcome in the New Year - a unique way to welcome in 2017. Transfers, cocktails, dinner, tango show - all followed by parties until the wee small hours of the morning. Madero Tango is even offering the additional surprise of watching fireworks go off over the docks of Puerto Madero. Whether it’s traditional (Esquina Carlos Gardel, Cafe de Los Angelitos), romantic (Gala Tango, La Ventana), extravagant (Madero Tango, Señor Tango, Rojo Tango) or bohemian (El Viejo Almacen, El Querandi), you´re sure to find a New Year´s Eve tango show that suits your style.
Whatever you decide to do, may you have a wonderful Christmas and a Happy New Year.
]]>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F2zTd_YwTvo
Por Una Cabeza (By a horse´s head) was penned by Carlos Gardel and Alfredo Le Pera and is the voice of a horse track gambler that relates his addiction to horses to his attraction to women. Written in 1935, it has been sung by many famous singers and used in multiple movies. It premiered in 1935 in the movie Tango Bar starring Carlos Gardel. It was in Scent of a Woman and is the song to which US President Barack Obama and First Lady Michelle Obama danced (with Mora Godoy and José Lugones) to during the visit to Buenos Aires earlier this year.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SJ1aTPM-dyE
It was also used in the movie Easy Virtue with Colin Firth, who does a much more convincing version of actual Argentine tango, although mixed with a bit of showy Ballroom Tango. It is good to note that Gomez Addams is not actually dancing what the Argentines call tango but that´s another story.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gcxv7i02lXc
The song is so famous that it is not limited to the golden age of tango singers who have given us such personal interpretations of the song. Singer Andrea Bocelli has also given his version of the infamous song, singing alongside two stage tango dancers as his honey voice gives a beautiful rendition of this traditional work.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p2RWpEktYFw
So how did Al Pacino fare on his second public performance of this song? If the Buenos Aires press is anything to go by, he gave a rather disappointing 10 second interpretation of the famous movie scene. With an Argentine girlfriend and an entire performance (An Evening with Pacino) the Teatro Colon, one might expect at least some knowledge of the basic steps. You can be the judge of it with this glimpse of his performance (and the theatre) here.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nm4x6P4NmI0
]]>It was like a scene out of a movie. Most of the crowd had dispersed from the New York style loft where the late night milonga was being held. Its warm brick walls were dimly lit by tall lamps, reflecting their light in the mirrors that ran down one long wall. The tall sash windows were open to the night air, letting the murmurs of the city entangle themselves with the strains of tango music.
With a simple tilt of his head, he indicated his desire for one final dance before the night ended. Having recently become infatuated with tango, I accepted his proposal immediately. I had been milking every milonga I could, from opening strains to the final close, dancing at every possible moment. He took me into the embrace and from the moment when he began to gently sway and shift our weight, I felt myself falling into what dancers describe as the ‘tango moment’. Everything fell away. It was simply myself, my partner and the dark moody tango bandoneon. Our feet moved simultaneously across the wooden dance floor, free to move as we wished being the only couple on the dance floor. Our own private moment.
These “tango moments” actually last for one song, or potentially a tanda (set of three songs). It is when you lose yourself completely in the music, your partner and your dance. You no longer worry about whether you are dancing correctly, whether you will to be able to follow the lead or whether you might bump into someone else. All nervousness drops away and there is a shared bubble of consciousness that draws you both in.
You may wonder that if you dance a lot, surely this must happen often? But the truth is, it doesn’t. Tango requires a presence from each dancer that is directly affected by their frame of mind. If you have had a bad day you can’t shake off, or even a bad dance the tanda before, the chance of a tango moment diminishes. The moment itself also requires a wee bit of magic as small factors determine whether it will happen or not. Some dancers have analysed their own tango moments, finding that they happen more often with a dancer of the same ability (a better dancer causes nervousness and a less experienced dancer requires more attention), or that dancing with a new partner heightens their awareness of their partner’s subtle movements.
Tango moments do not require big fancy movements. It is not the thrill of mastering a challenging sequence of improvised steps - although that is quite an experience that usually brings a smile to the usually sombre face of a dancer. It can be as simple was walking together with your partner, in time, in sync, connected.
It is what we dance for. These sweet gems that sparkle amidst the many many tandas. It is what keeps us coming back.
(Photo credit: Kyle M Lease)
Although walking is indeed one of the most interesting ways to get about the inner city, some visitors to Buenos Aires like to venture out and take public transport.
TAXIS/REMIS (private taxi)
Most tourists have the pleasure of a rather entertainingly whirlwind taxi ride whilst in Buenos Aires. It is usually the first thing visitors encounter after stepping off a plane so many are not prepared for the videogame swerving antics these professionals usually undertake. It makes for good conversation once you are safe in your apartment or hostel though. Taxis are super abundant throughout the central city and getting one is as easy as lifting an arm. Safety recommendations is always take a Radiotaxi (it usually has writing on all four doors and a sign on the top), try and hail a cab on the right hand side of the road with a safe place for them to stop (ie not in a bus stop), and try to have small bills on you so you can pay as close as possible to the amount. There are stories of taxi drivers swapping $100 bills for fake ones so keep an eye out for this.
SUBE CARD
The most important part of this quick guide is about the Sube card. Public transport across the board (except taxis) now usually require all passengers to pay via a Sube card. You may be able to use cash on some train services. Ridiculously, you are unable to pay for a ticket in cash at the ticket counter of the Subway and also unable to buy a Sube card from any train or subway station. So how do you go about getting one? Sube cards are usually sold at Kioscos. Be prepared to ask at several kioscos because there will undoubtedly be the excuse of ¨we have run out¨ or ¨no we don´t sell them¨ at the first one you try. Once you have your card, your best bet for putting on money is at the subway station or train stations. Very few kioscos are able to put money on your card but you may find some lottery shops (Loterias) will also put money on the card for you. You need to hold the card up to the little machine and the person behind the counter will charge it for you. If your spanish isn´t up to speed, then handing over the money and holding up the card usually gets the desired effect.
COLECTIVOS (buses)
Monsters of the road, the buses are a (usually) quick and relatively cheap option for getting around town. It can also be a rather entertaining insight into the residents´ everyday lives as well as getting you from A to B. Anecdotes include, one driver leaving the back door open while at the bus stop to patiently wait for the passenger leaning out the door (gesticulating fiercely) to finish his argument with somebody on the sidewalk. Another included a man with a flute who argued that the journey was made all the more pleasant as he was providing a soundtrack. Then you have the chance of the odd hair-raising moment like a barrier arm at a train crossing coming down on top of the bus, or the angry waiting passenger banging on the window, unable to understand why the bus driver will not let him on at the intersection instead of the actual bus stop.
The guide for buses (GuiaT - available at most magazine stands and is a great way of having a map of the entire city) does appear to require a university degree to get your head around it, but a wee bit of study of the particular lines you need will have you up to speed. Once you have the line you want, it is a matter of heading down to the bus stop (always on the right hand side of the road and usually a stop every two or three blocks) and raising your arm to signal to the driver to stop. Occasionally if the bus is full, the bus will not stop and just keep going. Once on board, let the driver know what street you are heading to and he will press a button. Put your card up to the machine and once it has beeped, you can move on. The price is upwards of $6.25 pesos. Note that buses tend to travel in groups (yes the drivers will stop and converse at the lights), and some routes are notoriously unreliable so you may be waiting between 5 minutes or over an hour for a bus. That is the luck of the draw!
SUBWAY
http://wander-argentina.com/how-to-take-thebuenos-aires-subway/ offers an indepth (but not quite up to date regarding the Sube card) description of how to take the Subway in Buenos Aires, highlighting train etiquette and giving you the odd spanish phrase that will come in handy. The subway network is much easier to understand and will get you to most places in the city. It costs $4,50 (at the moment - which may increase very soon) to enter the system but beware that most stations do not have the platform in the middle and if you enter on the wrong side, you are unable to cross to the other platform without losing your money. The phrase ¨¨Trenes a Rosas¨ means trains to Rosas, so you can figure out if the train is heading the way you want or not. A map is available in GuiaT as well.
TRAINS
Over the last few years, the City of Buenos Aires has improved its train system and now has comfortable trains that are looked after and pleasant to travel in, running on most lines. The train system is easy and usually reliable and all end up in the hub of Retiro. You can also get the Mitre connection from Retiro that takes you to the station Olivos, where you can access the Tren de la Costa (which goes out to Tigre).
Again, using a Sube card makes using the train super easy. Buying a return ticket (ida y vuelta) makes life easy for your return trip. Keep a hold of your ticket as usually you are asked at the station you get off at if you have your ticket. You can also use your Sube as a swipe on-swipe off card but it is not clear whether or not all stations have this ability yet as upgrades are continuing at the moment.
HIRING A CAR
It is not really worth hiring a car to get around the city as the public transport is so highly available. Note that you are able to use your Sube to pay at the toll booths (peajes) that are scattered about the motorways and routes leading out of the city.
]]>(Photo credit and copyright Rebecca Travaglia)
The dance floor was hidden up on the first floor, with no advertising to show new tangueros where to go. But of course, the strains of a bandoneon are easily picked up by those in the know and it was with delight that I skipped up the stairs to my first London milonga on a Sunday afternoon.
One of the reasons I know that tango is a part of me, is because I feel at home in a dance hall. I know its systems, its rules, and I love what happens there. Here, the old ballroom had a blackened roof with little chandeliers dotted around the place. It had a gothic feel with its black decor and low lighting, but this was contrasted by the impeccably dressed, and seemingly conservative dancers. There was free talcum powder (often a necessity in humidity), large fans and air conditioners, hot tea, cold water and biscuits to sustain those who were clearly working up a sweat on the dance floor.
My first dance was with a Polish guy who really wanted to whip out quite a few fancy steps that were a bit too fancy for this tanguera who had not danced tango for over two weeks. But his enjoyment was clear, and he simply danced in a style that he liked. And the style in here, is of course, Argentine tango with a twist of Englishness. Names are usually exchanged before the first dance and most dancers use an open or awkwardly half open half closed embrace. In Argentina, the women are given the choice to choose how close an embrace they use and most opt for the close embrace where the connection is at the chest.
My observations showed little quirks that were interesting to acknowledge and different to my experience in Buenos Aires. Here, none of the women danced with their eyes closed. By the time I left two hours later, I think I had seen two women besides myself who trusted their partners enough to dance with eyes shut. The floor had a seemingly haphazard style of movement in a general anti-clockwise direction. The floor came with the usual suspects – the guy out to show himself off, the pair of good dancers, the man who danced the same steps in the same sequence in the same rhythm whatever the music, the woman with the sparkly shoes, the couple who chatted the entire time they were dancing, and the ones who occasionally forgot which direction the flow was meant to go - a rather unforgivable error in Buenos Aires.
New attendees were introduced to the group as a whole, which was a good way to ensure we got dances. The MC was a little over zealous in his introduction of me and told the crowd I had landed from half way across the world that morning. How he got that from stating my name and birthplace is rather puzzling. The birthday dance had the women waiting to cut in on the man but with no tapping of the shoulder of the other woman. Just a simple nod to the man at the end of the 8 bar count.
Eventually I was able to find the dancers who focused on simple moves, musicality and connection. It was in these tandas that I felt most happy and comfortable, able to enjoy myself and the atmosphere the room had. The man who lived in Peru and was rediscovering tango after a long break, moved so gently in a slow tango that I was able to adorn the dance and actually interpret the music.
But my favourite person of the day was my new artist friend, David. He sat in the corner of the milonga and sketched, trying to capture the movement and flow of the milonga dancers. We talked about capturing the essence of the dance, and he admitted having never tried to dance tango but loved exploring the challenge of trying to capture it on paper. Armed with a few colours, paintbrush and pencil, he was sketching long rows of couples, showing the crowded dance floor, and managing to capture both the spark of many people dancing and the intimacy of each couple.
I left with my heart singing and an irresistable urge to practice boleos at the bus stop again.
]]>The latest book I’m reading has got me thinking about the quirky nature of Buenos Aires and the similar experiences that many of her visitors have that cause them to fall head over heels for her. Picaflor (by Jessica Talbot) outlines a woman’s journey of discovery - not only of herself but also how she came to find her ‘hogar’ (home) in Buenos Aires. Through her narrative, she outlines the little eccentricities that come with delving through the porteño culture that are often vividly shared between tourists and backpackers. It all begins from the moment you arrive.
Step off the plane and you are sure to experience a taxi ride of a lifetime into the city. Speed limits are treated more as minimum speeds and it seems indicators are defunct. Lanes are mere suggestions of where you could drive should you wish and many taxis appear to prefer driving directly on the line, as if pretending they are a mono-rail. The traffic is chaotic - the buses roar through the streets, inches from the pavement and their sound reverberates off the buildings in the narrow streets. Motorbikes swerve through the traffic with their drivers’ arms slung through their helmets as if looking cool is more important than protecting your head should you come a cropper. Horns are used freely to indicate a car’s presence on the road or their right of way at an intersection. The car fumes mix with the street smells of roasted sweet peanuts and the incessantly and loud chatter of the inhabitants. It’s noisy, it’s intense and it’s so completely Buenos Aires.
The central city usually enthralls its visitors with its schizophrenic arctitecture, where old French inspired buildings snuggle up to horrific 80s concrete designs and ornate wrought iron balconies are reflected in the modern glass towers. But while you are being awed by the view looking up, don’t forget to look down as the footpaths are usually cracked or have a paver loose and the city’s dogwalkers (who can be walking up to 15 dogs at a time) regrettably don’t have the inclination to pick up every doggy doo doo that their charges leave behind. And the loose pavers are a hazard after the rain when unsuspecting walkers have legs and shoes splashed by the hidden dirty pool of water that has gathered underneath them.
Children are very welcome here - an integral part of the family that is to be included in everything. It is not unusual to see young children out and about with their families at midnight, eating in restaurants or choosing their favourite flavour of icecream for dessert from one of the cities many late night heladerias (ice cream shops). Strangers show a particular warmth towards babies, free in their comments of how beautiful your baby is or asking how old they are as a way of introduction to share their own story about their nieto (grandchild) or sobrino (nephew/neice). Children are celebrated and to be seen and heard whenever they desire it.
The change in eating hours also makes an impact on all those who visit here. Don’t go expecting to be served at a restaurant before 8pm. Locals are renowned for their late night eating habits which usually extend well into the wee small hours of the morning. Lunch meanders from 1230pm until 3pm and afternoon tea extends anywhere from 4pm until 6pm. Breakfast is simply a coffee with medialunas (croissants) at some stage during the morning. Coffee is an important part of the diet here (along with mate) and there are a diverse range of cafes dotted throughout the city streets to choose from.
If you have the fortune of befriending a local, you will also be privy to the rich warmness and acceptance that this culture has. Whether your connection is simply a warm hola! from your local greengrocer or as involved as meeting up at a Sunday family asado (bbq), you are made to feel welcome and involved. This is reiterated in the sharing of mate (tea) where a single gourd of tea is passed between friends. Even if you feel your attempts at the local lingo seem that you are butchering what is a beautiful and sexy language, porteños will be thrilled that you are even making the effort. And, have no fear, the same mistakes are common; estoy embarazada does not mean ‘I am embarrassed’, but ‘I am pregnant’, and be sure to pronounce the n when saying estoy cansado (I am tired) because otherwise you are stating you are married (estoy casado). But porteños don’t mind these little imperfections - they will support you even if you spend your evening inadvertently saying Happy New Anus (Feliz Ano Nuevo) instead of Happy New Year (Feliz Año Nuevo).
When it comes to tango in this city however, experiences are as varied as the sea is wide. Whether it is hearing strains of bandonean from a cafe, dancing at a late night milonga for the first time or breathing in the heady fumes of a packed dance floor, every visitors experience is unique to them. And with that sort of passion, that's where Buenos Aires worms into your heart and leaves a little piece of herself.
Photo credit and copyright: Rebecca Travaglia
]]>Apparently she broke protocol in order to ask Obama to dance, who insisted that he didn't know how to dance. Credit needs to be given to Obama for kindly accepting her insistent request and putting himself in a potentially awkward position of dancing the lead role in a dance he doesn't know and in front of the world. The US President managed some pretty fancy footwork as Godoy sashayed around him and finished with a twirl before almost tipping Godoy off balance with an unsuccessful dip.
Lesser focus is given to Michelle Obama who accepted to dance in the shadows with Godoy's partner. No comments are made about her dancing as all eyes were on the showy moves and golden shimmer of Godoy's dress as her and Obama opened with a Gomez Addam's inspired straight arm tango.
Refreshingly (as compared to analysis from international media), Godoy remarked how it was simply a dream of hers to dance with him and how she was focused on dancing with him - nothing more, nothing less. She describes it as a unique experience and gushes about how marvellous and incredible the experience was. For Argentineans, it was simply an expression of an international visitor accepting and participating in their culture.
http://www.clarin.com/extrashow/fama/Mora_Godoy-Barack_Obama-tango-baile-CCK-cena-gala-Mauricio_Macri-Estados_Unidos-Argentina_0_1546045558.html
]]>"Ah, Rebecca. The unforgettable woman," he commented with a mischievous look in his eye. Even at the age of 89, this gentleman could still smooth talk his way about the ladies, even those over 50 years his junior. Alberto Podesta was the last surviving voice of the golden age of tango and we had the privilege of chauffeuring him to a milonga for a performance. Softly spoken, his manner was gentle until he stepped out on stage and he sang with such strength and vigor for his age. He was still performing at the age of 90, thrilling tango dancers at every performance.
Late last year, the tango community of the world was saddened by the passing of Podesta. On 9th December 2015, his manager Maria Alejandra Podesta announced that "At age 91, Maestro Alberto Podesta fell asleep forever. Tango was everything he thought, spoke and breathed. One of the greatest singers, with prolific work in the 1940s. One of my best friends and fellow traveller. I want to remember you forever this way, your smile and your mischief, but above all, your voice and nuances that resound softly entwining my heart. Farewell."
Born on the 22nd September 1924 as Washington Alejandro Ale in San Juan, his natural talent for singing shone through even at a young age. Nicknamed 'Gardelito' (little Gardel), it wasn't until 1939 that he moved to Buenos Aires and began his singing career. Given his stage Alberto Podesta by Carlos Di Sarli who hired him to sing for his band, it was Podesta's dream come true to be singing with Di Sarli before the age of 18. By 1945, his singing career was in full swing and he spent many years touring, bringing to life tango in many cities in the world. He continued to sing life into tango for the rest of his life.
As I was embarking on my own tango trip to Buenos Aires, I was told by many that if I have the opportunity to see Podesta sing then I must see it. As luck would have it, I saw Podesta perform three times - even once managing to snap a beautiful portrait of him. He was sitting backstage, looking serious and lost in his thoughts, when a mutual friend asked him if I could take his photo. Upon seeing a young girl with a camera in her hand, his face transformed, his eyes sparked and he smiled cheekily down the lens. It is one of my favourite photos and what a treasure it will be now.
Farewell Podesta. Thankyou for the beauty you have brought to many a milonga and for the performances those of us who have seen you, will never forget.
Further reading
http://www.tangotix.com/blogs/news/12740289-an-evening-with-alberto-podesta-in-el-faro-tango-in-buenos-aires
]]>
(Photograph credit: Gobierno de Buenos Aires)
It's that time of year again, where religion meets a jolly red fat man and the world is filled with christmas carols, tinsel, lights and festivities. It's a summer festival down here in the southern hemisphere and that means plenty of long warm and sultry evenings (with the occasional thunderstorm) to be shared with friends and family. Nochebuena (the 24th) is the night of celebration, where Santa manages to sneak past every child at midnight to leave presents under the tree while they are all out admiring the fireworks in the sky. He's a tricky wee character and there is nothing like the wide eyed wonder of a small child who can't figure out where the presents magically come from.
While over the years, the amount of fireworks that are let off on both Nochebuena and New Year have lessened, there is still an impressive amount of noise being made on both these celebrations. There is still a community spirit in the neighbourhoods where neighbours come out onto the street to wish each other Felices Fiestas.
If you’re celebrating in the city of Buenos Aires, why not make Christmas unique and spice it up with an evening out at a tango show. While all tango shows are open for New Years Eve celebrations, La Ventana, Gala Tango, El Viejo Almacen and Piazzolla Tango are also offering special shows on Christmas Eve. Each has an unforgettable evening planned that usually includes welcome cocktails, a gala dinner, elaborate tango show and after the midnight toast, a party with a DJ and regular shuttles back to hotels.
Transport over the festive season is very limited (take note: between 9pm and 3am on the celebration days, there are almost no buses or taxis) and most restaurants require advanced bookings. This can make a tango show all the more appealing as all the hard work is done for you and you don't have to worry about being stranded without a taxi. Besides, this is Buenos Aires whose heart and soul is about tango. What better way to bring in the New Year?
All the tango shows are offering specially planned events to welcome in the New Year and offer an excellent way to give you a unique start to 2016. Transfers, cocktails, dinner, tango show - all followed by parties until the wee small hours of the morning. Madero Tango is even offering the additional surprise of watching fireworks go off over the docks of Puerto Madero. Whether it’s traditional (Esquina Carlos Gardel, Cafe de Los Angelitos), romantic (Gala Tango, La Ventana), extravagant (Madero Tango, Señor Tango, Rojo Tango) or bohemian (El Viejo Almacen, El Querandi), you´re sure to find a New Year´s Eve tango show that suits your style.
Feliz Navidad and may you tango yourself into a wonderful New Year.
]]>Just off Calle Florida (the pedestrian way), Piazzolla Tango is located in the basement of Galeria Guemes, an old gallery whose name has completely faded and rubbed off, making it all the more secretive. If you’re having some trouble finding it, make sure you enter into this arcade to find the show. There are no signs on the street to indicate where it is. Down several flights of marble stairs, the tango class is held in a well decorated salon which was initially a tearoom/cafe when the gallery was constructed. It was during the 50’s that Abdulah Club, as it was known to the privileged and famous of tango composers, is said to have housed burlesque shows and shown erotic movies until these type of shows lost their appeal. It was not until 2003 that this gallery (and the theatre) was rescued and restored to the well decorated gold and red gem that it is today.
Recommended to those attending the tango show, this complimentary tango class is a great introduction to the basic steps of tango. Taught by two of the performers, the class is in Spanish with English translations but these can be delivered rather rapidly so you need to be on the look out for them. During the introductions where attendees announce where they are from, the teachers make a note and try to translate, where possible, into other languages including portuguese and Italian. At half an hour long, it keeps your interest without letting the rumbles of a hungry tummy get overwhelming.
On the other side from this salon is the theatre. While modest in its size, it makes up with grandeur in lavish red and gold decor. Gold lion heads line the white pillars along with red velvet curtains giving the place a very regal feel. With a capacity of 350 persons, the main floor is lined with tables which are separated by wine holders, meaning diners will retain a sense of ‘their table’ without being locked between strangers. The walls are lined with booths which are for the VIP patrons. Seating up to four people each and accessed through red velvet lined archways, these booths offer not only a great view but dining privacy. There are also balcony booths on the second level for those wanting a higher view of the stage. The front booths can sometimes obscure the view of some of the band, since they sit at the back of the stage, however you never miss a single moment of the dancing.
The waiters are extra attentive and helpful with whatever questions may arise. Extra options within each course and a higher quality of wine are what separate the VIP menu and the standard menu. A vegetarian option is available in both standard and VIP and the menus are written in english, spanish, portuguese and french.
The show is captivating not only for the sexy costumes and style of high calibre performers, but for the intimacy the small theatre brings, where you are close enough to see the breath and emotion of the singers. The show pays homage to the roots of tango where men used to dance with men (apparently while waiting for their turn inside the brothels), and opens up the first solo dance with a brave and daring couple whose dramatic dancing generated an occasional gasp as the woman executed the difficult moves perfectly, just inches away from the walls. The ganchos fly at lightning speed and are sometimes so quick that you miss them.
Bear in mind that the show is about 80 minutes and starts at 9.45pm which can make for a long evening if you are attending the class at 7.45pm as well. There is an opportunity for a photo with some dancers as well should you wish.
Overall, Piazzolla Tango makes an excellent choice for those staying in the City Centre and who wish for a tango show with a theatre feel that retains a sense of intimacy and luxury.
]]>(photo credit Rebecca T)
"I once said no to him a long time ago but then I thought, oh surely it couldn't have been that bad, so I said yes!" she wailed from the back of the car. "Now I remember why I said no!"
My friend's bemoaning her disastrous night out at a milonga is not as uncommon as you think. Many tango blogs and articles will have you thinking that there are handsome dashing men simply waiting to give you the best tanda of your life before drifting back into the milonga shadows, never to be seen again.
But quite simply, that's not true.
My friend had been caught by a shark. A tiburon, we call them. They are the men that lurk at milongas, waiting to pounce on the pretty foreigners who arrive. Once they have your cabeceo, you're stuck with them for the 10 minute tanda (set of songs) - just enough time, so they think, to work their "magic". Easily identifiable, a Tiburon is the man holding onto the hand of his victim during the breaks between songs, chatting away and acting as if it was quite normal. It's not - you are not required to hold the hands of your tango partner the entire time. One particular Tiburon even dances with the girl during the cortina (the musical break between tandas) - a big no-no. It's impossible to break away without feeling like you are being rude, hence the Tiburon has the advantage.
A tiburon will move boldly around the room, searching out women that either a) haven't danced with them before, b) have difficulty at saying "no" (it's harder than you think) or c) make accidental eye contact. They smile at you like you've made the best decision of your life to dance with them. They also won't let anything deter them from asking. One friend was asked to dance by one particularly famous Tiburon even while wearing her baby on her in a babywrap. This particular Tiburon that my friend had danced with, likes to flourish the conversation with his heavily accented English. He also has the unfortunate problem of sweating a lot. Not a little. A lot.
While sweating is not something to hold against a person, when you're dancing cheek to cheek with someone, the last thing you want is for your fringe to become plastered to your face with someone else's sweat dripping down you. And even less appealing is when you indicate that you want to dance in the open embrace and the Tiburon insists on close embrace by pulling you ever closer. You know something is wrong when your left arm bicep is aching after one song, instead of your feet.
We didn't offer much support for my poor friend once she returned from the dance floor. We were too busy laughing after having watched her smile politely at the man during the very one sided conversations and peer over his shoulder at us with a look of despair on her face. Her only consolation was a glass of beer and reassure her that she wouldn't ever suffer it again.
Be warned ladies. It pays to watch the couples before you start dancing and stay away from the nicely smiling man. His teeth are sharp.
]]>I stumbled across this little article this morning -
http://www.stuff.co.nz/life-style/6335166/The-cheek-of-social-kissing
and it got me thinking.
Here in Argentina, the greeting is a single kiss on the right cheek - or more like a cheek touch, there isn't always lip contact. It´s not terribly difficult to grasp the technique and while I´m comfortable with obvious differences (friends – kiss/hug, strangers – peck), those people in the middle of these two points can be somewhat awkward. Professional relationships are a whole other ball game. After meeting my new doctor for the first time, we said our goodbyes with a kiss on the cheek as this is a person I am to develop a sense of trust with. The doctor that made a house call last week gave us a handshake since it was the one and only time we were to see him. But the hairdresser I saw just once recently said goodbye with a kiss. It leaves a wee bit of confusion about the whole thing. The greeting kiss also means that leaving a party requires you to take 10 minutes to usually give everyone a kiss goodbye. I will admit that there have been times in the early morning when I just long to be able to stand up and wave my hand in a sweeping gesture of goodbye to everyone at the party and save myself an extra half an hour of saying goodbye.
What this article highlighted above does, is get a little too over the top about it all. We don´t really need to explain the social dynamics of what is going on, and often we´re too worried about doing the right thing and heaven forbid we should induce some degree of social awkwardness. Sure, it is a challenge watching myself manuever between confidently greeting friends and family in this new culture, and standing awkwardly behind my husband to follow what he does when meeting a group of new group of people for the first time.
The article states that greeting with a kiss is becoming meaningless through overuse. What a load of rubbish. Every time I greet a friend with a kiss, it is a sign of affection and gratitude for having them in my life and what they give me. And believe me, there is no misreading of the kiss. The kiss you give when greeting your boy or girlfriend, husband or wife is substantially different to how you would greet your friends in a social situation so there is no risk of there being any confusion over any significance of the gesture. To a new social buddy, the kiss shows a sense of welcome, openess and trust. Travelers that we have hosted in this fair city love this social etiquette and embrace it whole heartedly.
So for those traveling to Buenos Aires and who want to really feel like they are getting into the culture, this greeting is a simple and easy way to feel immersed in the culture here. The best advice is to be open and just go with the flow. There is no need for awkward embarrassment. Like they say, when in Rome!
]]>Running from the 14th August until 27th August, the programme is huge. Shows and activities include musical performances by orchestras and singers, a myriad of classes for various levels, milongas and workshops and a products fair, all running alongside the international stage and salon Tango Mundial Championships. There are even art exhibitions related to tango. The government of Buenos Aires has a webpage up that explains (in both spanish and english) what’s on and where to go. Unable to be held in Recoleta like previous years, the Centro de Exposiciones is now down in the suburb of La Boca so it is a wee bit of a hike to get there.
You don’t have to be a tango dancer to get involved in the festivities. There are plenty of concerts being held either in Villa Urquiza (easily accessible on Linea B Subte) and Parque Centenario - a few short blocks from Corrientes. Check out the Entradas page for an explanation how to get your hands on tickets for these events. This year there is a concert to page homage to Mariano Mores - a man born in 1918 here in Buenos Aires and responsible for several famous tango melodies including Uno and Sin Palabras. He made his debut at just 14 years old and is also a pianist as well as a composer.
The exciting part is that, while part of the Mundial crowns the Salon (ie traditional) tango champions, there is also an Escenario (stage) section which gives those more daring tango dancers a space to really showcase what they can do. What you see at Tango Shows is Escenario tango - full of kicks, leaps, lifts and choreography - and the Mundial gives a chance for you to see the best of the best giving it their all, in suave suits and killer high heels.
What: Buenos Aires Tango Festival and Mundial (World Championships)
When: 14th - 27th August 2015
Where: Various locations around the city.
Website: http://festivales.buenosaires.gob.ar/2015/tangofestivalymundial/es/programacion/diaxdia/18
Admission to events: Mostly free
]]>